Tikka, Passa, Jhoomar: India's Head Jewellery Explained

Quick Answer: India's head jewellery family includes three major forms: the maang tikka (centre forehead pendant), the passa (a side ornament worn at the temple), and the jhoomar or borla (a side-drop piece hanging over the ear). Together, the three can be worn simultaneously for a full bridal head jewellery look, or individually for festive occasions at different levels of formality.

The Indian bridal head is a landscape — it has geography, levels, and specific ornament forms mapped to specific locations. The tikka marks the centre; the passa marks the sides; the jhoomar or jhumar hangs beside the ear. Each region of India has its own names and forms for these pieces. Understanding the vocabulary helps you choose with intention rather than guessing at an elaborate jewellery counter.

The Maang Tikka

The most widely known head jewellery piece — a pendant suspended from a chain along the centre parting. Available from simple thin chains to elaborate kundan pieces. The pendant sits at the centre of the forehead. For detailed guidance on maang tikka styles, see our dedicated maang tikka article. In the head jewellery ensemble, this is the anchor piece — always present when other head pieces are worn.

The Passa

The passa (also spelled pasa or paasa) is a side head ornament — a long ornamental piece that is pinned into the hair at the side (typically the right temple) and extends downward alongside the face. It may be a single elongated pin with decorative elements, or a more elaborate piece with hanging elements (chains, drops, bells). The passa is most commonly associated with Mughal and North Indian/Pakistani bridal traditions. It is positioned to be visible when the face is seen from the front, creating an asymmetric framing effect.

The Jhoomar

The jhoomar (also spelled jhumar, or called borla in Rajasthani tradition) is a side headpiece that hangs over one ear — typically the left — like an elaborate chandelier suspended from the hair. It is distinct from the passa in that it is more pendant-like, heavier, and covers the side of the head rather than framing the temple vertically. In Punjabi bridal tradition, the jhoomar is one of the most important pieces; in Rajasthani tradition, the borla (a distinctive round ornament on the side of the head) serves the same side-decoration function.

Wearing Head Jewellery Together

For a full traditional ensemble: tikka at centre, passa at one temple, jhoomar at the opposite side. This creates a balanced asymmetry. For less formal occasions: tikka alone, or tikka with passa. The jhoomar is primarily bridal. Contemporary brides sometimes choose only one side piece for a cleaner, more modern look. The ensemble works best when all pieces are in the same metal family and aesthetic register.

FAQ

What is the difference between a jhoomar and a passa?

A passa is a vertical side ornament pinned at the temple, usually elongated and extending downward along the face. A jhoomar hangs from the side of the head over the ear, more like a pendant or chandelier than a pin. The passa frames the face from the side; the jhoomar hangs from the head over the ear. They serve different positions in the head jewellery geography.

Is head jewellery only for weddings?

The full ensemble (tikka + passa + jhoomar) is bridal. Individual pieces have wider application. The tikka is worn at all festive occasions. A simple passa can be worn at sangeet and engagement ceremonies. The jhoomar is almost exclusively bridal in most traditions, though small contemporary interpretations can work for festive wear.

What is a borla?

A borla is a Rajasthani head ornament — a round or dome-shaped ornament worn at the side of the head, typically studded with meenakari enamel or stones. It is the Rajasthani equivalent of the jhoomar and is one of the most distinctive pieces of Rajasthani bridal jewellery.

How are head jewellery pieces secured?

All head jewellery pieces are pinned into the hair with U-pins, hair pins, or decorative pins that come with the piece. Heavy pieces need to be pinned into a substantial section of hair near the crown for security. Professional hair and makeup artists pin head jewellery as part of bridal preparation — the pieces require skill to place securely.

India's head jewellery tradition maps an entire cosmology onto the face — each piece placed with meaning and intention. At KANSYA, we honour this tradition. Explore our jewellery collection.