What Is Enamel Jewellery? A Guide to Colourful Handmade Jewelry

You have seen them everywhere: earrings and rings with that smooth, almost ceramic pop of colour that looks nothing like paint and nothing like stone. That finish is enamel, and once you understand what it is, you will never look at coloured jewellery the same way again.

Enamel jewellery is having a significant moment in Indian fashion, and not only because colour is having a moment. It is because enamel does something no paint or coating can: it becomes part of the metal. This guide explains exactly what enamel is, how it is applied to brass, the different types, and how to care for it so the colour lasts.

What Is Enamel in Jewellery?

Enamel is a glass-based coating fused onto metal to create a smooth, colourful, hard surface. In its traditional form (vitreous enamel), powdered glass mixed with metal oxides for colour is applied to the metal surface and fired in a kiln at temperatures between 750°C and 900°C. The glass melts, bonds with the metal, and cools into a glassy layer that is essentially permanent.

Cold enamel, which is what most contemporary handmade brass jewellery uses, is a resin-based colour compound applied to recessed areas of the metal and cured at room temperature or with ultraviolet light. It is not fired in a kiln but produces a similar smooth, glassy finish. The difference: traditional vitreous enamel is harder and more heat-resistant, while cold enamel allows more colour flexibility and is far more accessible for small-batch craft production.

Kansya's enamel pieces, including the Blue Enamel Blossom Orbit Earrings and the Blue Enamel Petal Curl Earrings, use cold enamel on brass, creating vivid, opaque colour fields in the recessed petal and orbital shapes of each design.

The Different Types of Enamel Technique

Not all enamel jewellery is made the same way. Here are the main techniques you will encounter:

• Cloisonné: Thin metal wires (cloisons) are soldered onto the base to create small cells, which are then filled with enamel powder and fired. The result is jewellery with precise colour compartments separated by visible metal lines. This is a high-skill traditional craft.
• Champlevé: The metal surface is carved or etched to create recesses, which are filled with enamel and fired flush. Produces a mosaic-like look with the metal frame showing between colour sections.
• Plique-à-jour: Enamel is applied without a metal backing, creating a translucent stained-glass effect. Very delicate and rare.
• Cold enamel (resin enamel): Resin-based colour is poured or painted into recessed areas and cured. No kiln required. Most widely used in contemporary handcrafted jewellery. This is the technique in Kansya's enamel collection.
• Meenakari: The Indian traditional enamel craft, where enamel is painted onto metal (usually gold or silver, now also brass) and fired. Primarily decorative, applied to the backs and surfaces of traditional jewellery. See our guide to meenakari jewellery for detail.

Why Enamel on Brass Works Particularly Well

Brass is a naturally warm-toned metal that takes plating and surface treatments exceptionally well. When cold enamel is applied to brass, the slightly textured surface of the brass (before plating) gives the resin something to grip, improving adhesion. The gold or rhodium plating applied over the rest of the brass piece provides a strong frame that makes the enamel colour pop.

The result is what you see in Kansya's Blue Enamel collection: the deep sky-blue of the enamel set against either gold-plated brass (warm contrast) or rhodium-plated brass (cool, silvery contrast). Both readings are intentional design choices.

For a broader look at how brass behaves as a base metal, our post on brass earrings for everyday wear covers the material in depth.

How Durable Is Enamel Jewellery?

Cold enamel is more durable than most people expect. It is harder than paint, resistant to fading from light, and holds its colour through sweat and humidity far better than surface finishes. The main risks are:

• Chipping: If dropped on a hard surface or knocked sharply, cold enamel can chip at the edges. Vitreous enamel chips more cleanly; cold enamel can peel at the chip site.
• Solvents: Acetone (nail polish remover), alcohol, and harsh chemical cleaners can soften and lift cold enamel. Avoid contact entirely.
• Deep scratches: The enamel surface can scratch with abrasive contact, though this is less likely with the recessed enamel designs Kansya uses, where the metal frame protects the enamel field.

With normal wear, avoiding drops and solvents, cold enamel jewellery easily lasts 3 to 5 years of regular use before showing any wear at edges.

How to Care for Enamel Jewellery

Care for enamel jewellery is straightforward once you know what to avoid:

• Clean with a soft damp cloth and mild soap. Rinse and dry immediately.
• Never use ultrasonic cleaners, which can crack the enamel through vibration.
• Never use acetone, alcohol, or jewellery dip solutions anywhere near enamel.
• Store in a soft pouch or box where it won't knock against other pieces.
• Remove before washing hands, swimming, or doing dishes.

How to Style Enamel Jewellery

Enamel's strength is colour, which means the styling rule is simple: let one colour lead.

The Blue Enamel Petal Curl Earrings look best against white, cream, or black outfits where the blue reads clearly. With a printed or heavily patterned outfit, they disappear. The Blue Enamel Petal Bracelet with Ring works as a single wrist statement: one piece, no stacking, colour does the work.

For Indian ethnic wear, enamel jewellery is ideal with solid-colour kurtas and cotton sarees. It bridges traditional craft and contemporary colour in a way that neither plain brass nor kundan jewellery does.

Conclusion

Enamel jewellery is one of the few ways to introduce vivid, lasting colour into a jewellery collection without relying on precious stones. On brass, it is accessible, expressive, and surprisingly durable. Kansya's enamel collection brings this craft to everyday Indian fashion: thoughtful colour, clean forms, and craft you can feel in the weight of the piece. Browse the full earrings collection to find your colour.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between enamel and painted jewellery?

Paint sits on the metal surface and is easily scratched, chipped, or worn away. Enamel, whether vitreous (fired glass) or cold (cured resin), forms a harder, more durable layer that bonds with the metal. Enamel is fade-resistant and holds its finish far longer than paint under regular wear conditions.

Does cold enamel jewellery last?

Yes. Cold enamel jewellery typically lasts 3 to 5 years of regular wear with basic care: avoid solvents like acetone, avoid hard knocks that can chip the edges, and clean only with mild soap and soft cloth. Recessed enamel designs, where the metal frame surrounds the colour field, tend to be more durable than surface-applied enamel.

Is enamel jewellery safe for sensitive skin?

Enamel itself is inert and non-reactive, making it a good option for people with metal sensitivities. However, the base metal matters. Kansya's enamel jewellery is made on a brass base with gold or rhodium plating. If you have a brass allergy (nickel sensitivity), rhodium-plated pieces are the better choice, as rhodium creates a complete barrier between the skin and brass.

Can enamel jewellery get wet?

Brief contact with water, such as washing hands, is generally fine if the piece is dried immediately. Do not soak enamel jewellery, wear it swimming, or expose it to sweat for extended periods. Prolonged moisture can work under the enamel at edges and cause peeling, particularly in cold enamel pieces. Remove jewellery before bathing.

What is meenakari enamel?

Meenakari is the Indian traditional form of enamel work, where enamel colours are painted onto gold, silver, or brass and fired in a kiln. It originates in Jaipur, Rajasthan, and is typically found on the reverse side of traditional kundan jewellery, as well as standalone decorative pieces. See our full guide to meenakari jewellery.