What Is Kundan Jewellery? History, Types, and How to Style It

You are standing in front of your wardrobe, lehenga picked out, jewellery box open. Your eyes land on a pair of intricate earrings with glass stones that catch the light in a way your plain gold-plated studs never do. That, most likely, is kundan jewellery doing what it has done for five centuries: making an ordinary moment feel ceremonial.

But what exactly is kundan? How is it made, why does it look so different from regular stone jewellery, and how do you style it without overdoing it? This guide covers everything from its Mughal origins to practical tips for modern wardrobes.

What Is Kundan Jewellery, Exactly?

Kundan is a jewellery-setting technique, not a material. The word "kundan" means pure gold in classical usage, referring to the highly refined 24-karat gold foil traditionally pressed around stones to hold them in place without prongs, claws, or any visible metal frame.

In practice, a kundan piece has three layers: a base of lac (a natural resin used as filler and adhesive), a setting of gold or gold-plated metal formed around the stone, and the stone itself, which is typically polished glass, rock crystal, or a semi-precious gemstone. The result is a setting where the stone appears to float inside a frame of pure, burnished gold.

Modern affordable kundan, including the pieces at Kansya, uses brass as the base instead of solid gold. Gold or rhodium plating is applied over the brass, the lac core is packed in, and the kundan setting technique holds the glass or stone in place. The visual effect is nearly identical, at a fraction of the cost.

The History: From Mughal Courts to Every Indian Wedding

Kundan jewellery traces its origins to the Mughal courts of 16th-century India. The technique was brought by artisans from Persia and Central Asia, and the royal workshops of Rajasthan and Gujarat refined it over generations. Jaipur, Bikaner, and Delhi became the major kundan centres.

For centuries, kundan was exclusively royal patronage, with each piece hand-worked by specialists called kundansaz, who could spend weeks on a single necklace. The craft migrated from Rajput courts to the wider merchant class after Indian independence, and eventually reached the mass market through workshops in Jaipur's Johari Bazaar, where the craft is still taught today.

Today, kundan is the default jewellery choice for Indian bridal looks and festive occasions, worn across communities and regions with little modification to the original technique.

Kundan vs Polki vs Meenakari: What Is the Difference?

These three techniques are often confused because they appear together in traditional Indian jewellery:

• Kundan refers to the setting technique: stones held by pressed gold foil, no metal claws visible.
• Polki refers to the stone type: uncut diamonds (or imitation polki glass) set using the kundan technique. All polki jewellery uses kundan setting, but not all kundan uses polki stones.
• Meenakari refers to enamel work on the reverse side of many kundan pieces. Traditional kundan jewellery often has a meenakari back, because the lac-filled reverse was considered incomplete without decoration. Read our guide to meenakari jewellery for the full story.

Types of Kundan Jewellery

Kundan comes in several sub-styles, distinguished by the stones used and the level of enamel work:

• Glass kundan: The most widely available type, using cut glass or acrylic stones. Produces the same brilliant colour range as gemstone kundan at a fraction of the price.
• Meenakari kundan: Has colourful enamel work on the reverse, combining two traditional crafts in one piece.
• Jadau kundan: The most elaborate form, where gemstones are set directly in thick gold using the kundan technique. Found only in high-end traditional jewellery.
• Lightweight modern kundan: Uses brass or white metal base with thin plating, making large chandelier-style pieces wearable without neck strain. This is what Kansya specialises in.

How to Style Kundan Jewellery

Kundan works best as the centrepiece of a look, with everything else supporting it rather than competing.

With ethnic wear: Pair chandelier kundan earrings like the Chandrika Kundan Chandelier Earrings with a banarasi or silk saree for festive and wedding occasions. Keep the neckline simple, because kundan earrings already provide strong vertical drama.

With contemporary Indian wear: Kurta sets and anarkali suits pair beautifully with smaller kundan pieces. The Bird Kundan Studs are an ideal example: intricate enough to read as traditional, small enough to wear with a printed kurta on a regular working day.

With Western outfits: This is where modern kundan shines. A single statement kundan earring (no necklace, no bracelet) against a plain black dress or white shirt creates a high-contrast look that reads as fashion-forward rather than costume-like.

Hair and neckline tips: Wear hair up or swept to one side with chandelier kundan, so the earrings are fully visible. Avoid boat necks and off-shoulders if you are wearing a kundan necklace, as it will compete with the neckline. V-necks and scoop necks work best.

How to Care for Kundan Jewellery

Kundan's lac core means it should never be soaked or submerged in water. Follow these rules:

• Wipe with a soft dry cloth after wearing. Never use wet tissue or jewellery-cleaning liquid.
• Store flat, not hanging, because the weight of stones can stress the lac setting over time.
• Keep away from perfume, hairspray, and sweat. Apply all products before putting jewellery on.
• Avoid high heat, including direct sunlight and hair dryers, because lac can soften and shift the stone setting.

For care guidance on the brass and plating underneath the kundan setting, see our post on whether brass jewellery turns skin green and our comparison of rhodium plating vs gold plating.

Conclusion

Kundan jewellery is one of India's great surviving crafts, a 500-year-old technique that has moved from royal courts to everyday women without losing its essential character. Whether you choose the understated Bird Kundan Studs for daily wear or the Chandrika Kundan Chandelier Earrings for a wedding, you are wearing a piece of a long and specific tradition. Explore Kansya's Indian Jewellery Collection for handcrafted kundan pieces starting at ₹279.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is kundan jewellery made of?

Kundan jewellery uses three main materials: a metal base (traditionally gold, today usually brass), a lac resin core that fills the interior and holds the stones, and the stones themselves (glass, acrylic, or gemstones). The name "kundan" refers to the refined gold foil pressed around each stone to create the setting without prongs or claws.

Is kundan jewellery real gold?

Traditional Mughal-era kundan used 24-karat gold, but most modern kundan is made on a brass or white metal base with gold plating. Kansya's kundan pieces use brass with gold plating or rhodium plating, making them affordable while maintaining the authentic look. Always check the product description for the base metal and plating.

How is kundan different from polki?

Kundan is a setting technique where stones are held by pressed gold foil. Polki refers specifically to uncut diamonds (or imitation polki glass) used as the stone in a kundan setting. All polki jewellery uses kundan setting, but kundan can hold any stone, including coloured glass, pearl, and ruby imitations.

Can you wear kundan jewellery every day?

Small kundan pieces like studs and simple drops are suitable for daily wear if you follow care guidelines: keep away from moisture, perfume, and sweat, and store flat. Heavy chandelier or choker pieces are better reserved for occasions because the weight stresses the lac filling over time and increases the risk of stone loosening.

How do you clean kundan jewellery at home?

Use a soft, dry cotton cloth to wipe down kundan jewellery after each use. Never soak it in water or cleaning solution because the lac interior absorbs moisture and can crack or discolour. If a stone becomes loose, take it to a jeweller for re-setting rather than attempting home repair with adhesive.