What Is Kundan Work? The Ancient Gold Setting Technique

Quick Answer: Kundan is an ancient Indian jewellery-making technique in which highly refined gold (kundan) is used as a setting material — worked into a pliable form that surrounds and grips gemstones or glass without claws or prongs. The stones appear to float in pure gold. It is one of India's most sophisticated jewellery traditions, practised primarily in Rajasthan and Gujarat for over 2500 years.

The defining characteristic of kundan jewellery is the seamlessness of the setting. Pick up a well-made kundan piece and turn it over: the front shows nothing but stones and gold. No settings visible, no prongs, no bezel edges standing above the stone. The gold seems to have grown around the stone. That is the kundan technique, and it takes years of training to master.

What Does Kundan Mean?

The word kundan comes from Sanskrit and means pure or refined. It refers specifically to the 24-karat gold that is purified, beaten thin, and worked into strips or pellets. This highly refined gold is soft enough to be pressed and shaped by hand tools, which is what allows the artisan to set stones without mechanical prong-cutting. No other gold alloy is soft enough for this — it must be kundan.

The Kundan Setting Process

First, a base is created — typically a lac (natural resin) core shaped to the design, covered in thin gold foil. The artisan, called a kundansaz, places each stone on the lac base and surrounds it with strips of kundan gold, pressing them down to grip the stone from the sides. More gold is added and pressed until the stone is fully secured and the gold surface is smooth. This process is repeated for every stone in the piece — hundreds of stones in a large necklace, set entirely by hand.

Kundan vs Polki vs Jadau

All three are related. Kundan is the setting technique (using refined gold). Polki describes the type of stone (uncut diamonds). Jadau describes the act of embedding stones into molten gold. A kundan piece can use any stone — glass, semi-precious, or precious. A polki piece uses uncut diamonds but is set using the kundan technique. Jadau specifically involves pressing stones into softened gold. In practice, the three terms are often conflated in the market.

The Meenakari Reverse

One of the hallmarks of fine kundan jewellery is the reverse: almost all high-quality pieces feature meenakari (coloured enamel) work on the back. This is not just decorative — it is a sign of the maker's confidence and craft. A kundan piece with a plain or rough reverse is either unfinished or of lower quality.

How to Buy Genuine Kundan Jewellery

Ask about the base metal (lac base is traditional; cheaper pieces use brass), the gold content (kundan should be 22–24 karat), and whether the reverse has meenakari. Genuine kundan will be heavier than it looks and will have slightly irregular, handmade-looking stone placement. Perfect uniformity often signals machine production.

FAQ

Is kundan jewellery real gold?

Traditional kundan uses 22–24 karat gold (very high purity). However, many pieces sold as kundan-style or kundan-inspired use gold-plated base metals. Always ask specifically about gold content. Genuine high-karat kundan will be significantly more expensive than gold-plated versions.

How do I care for kundan jewellery?

Avoid water, perfume, and chemicals. The lac base can soften in high heat — do not leave in a hot car. Store flat in a soft-lined box. Clean with a dry soft brush. Take to a specialist for annual checks that all stones are secure.

What is the difference between kundan and meenakari?

Kundan is a stone-setting technique using refined gold. Meenakari is an enamel painting technique applied to metal surfaces. In Indian jewellery, they are most often used together — kundan on the front, meenakari on the reverse — but they are distinct crafts practised by different artisans.

Is kundan jewellery suitable for everyday wear?

No. The lac base is not as durable as metal, and the gold is soft (24 karat is quite malleable). Kundan is occasion jewellery — bridal, festive, and formal wear. Daily wear would risk loosening stones and softening the lac.

Kundan is the meeting of mathematics and intuition — every stone placed by hand, held by pressure and skill rather than metal claws. At KANSYA, we carry this spirit of craft in every handmade piece we create. Explore our jewellery collection.