What Is a Naulakha Necklace? India's Most Legendary Jewellery Form

Quick Answer: A naulakha necklace (from Hindi nau lakh — nine lakhs, meaning 900,000) is an extraordinarily elaborate multi-strand necklace historically valued at nine lakh rupees. The term has come to describe any exceptionally precious, multi-strand Indian necklace combining pearls, rubies, emeralds, and gold in a layered design associated with Mughal and princely Indian tradition. The most famous naulakha — a 7-strand pearl, ruby, and emerald necklace — was owned by the Baroda royal family before it was sold at auction in the 20th century.

The naulakha is Indian jewellery at its most aspirational. Nine lakh rupees in historical currency represented an almost incomprehensible sum — the kind of wealth that only maharajas and nawabs could command. The necklaces that earned this name were not just expensive; they were monuments of craft, taking years to assemble by the finest court jewellers, their stones selected from across the world for colour, lustre, and rarity.

The History of the Naulakha

The naulakha tradition is rooted in Mughal court jewellery culture, where elaborate multi-strand necklaces combining natural pearls (from the Persian Gulf and Ceylon), Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds, and Indian gold were the highest expression of royal status. The Mughal emperors were among the greatest jewellery collectors in history — Jehangir, Shah Jahan, and Aurangzeb all possessed naulakha-class necklaces. As Mughal power declined, this tradition passed to the princely states, where the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Maharajas of Baroda, Patiala, and Jaipur maintained and expanded these collections.

The Baroda Naulakha

The most famous naulakha was the Baroda Pearl Necklace — seven strands of perfectly matched natural pearls interspersed with rubies and emeralds, assembled over decades by the Gaekwad rulers of Baroda. It was sold from the collection in the mid-20th century, eventually auctioned multiple times as one of the most significant pieces of Indian royal jewellery. Its story embodies the transition of India's great jewellery collections from royal treasuries to the global art market.

The Naulakha in Contemporary Indian Jewellery

Contemporary naulakha-inspired necklaces retain the essence of the form — multi-strand, combining pearls with coloured stones and gold — at accessible price points. The term is sometimes used loosely for any multi-strand statement necklace. Genuine traditional naulakha craftsmanship, using natural pearls hand-knotted on silk with real precious stones, is still practised by master jewellers in Jaipur and Hyderabad, though the prices are a fraction of the historical originals (and still significant by any measure).

How to Style a Naulakha-Inspired Necklace

A naulakha or multi-strand pearl-and-stone necklace is a complete look in itself. Pair with a plain, solid-colour silk blouse or an unembellished saree — the necklace is the entirety of the jewellery statement. Keep earrings minimal (small gold studs or small pearl drops). No other necklace layers needed. The piece works for weddings, receptions, and formal festive occasions where maximum jewellery impact is appropriate.

FAQ

What does naulakha literally mean?

Nau (nine) + lakh (100,000) = 900,000. A naulakha was a piece valued at nine lakh rupees. In historical context, this represented an almost incomprehensible sum. Today the term is used more loosely to describe an exceptionally elaborate, multi-strand Indian necklace of the type historically valued at this sum.

Is the original Baroda Naulakha still intact?

The Baroda Pearl Necklace has passed through multiple owners and auction sales since leaving the Gaekwad collection. Its current owner is private. The piece is among the most historically significant pieces of Indian jewellery in existence — a record of both the craft of Mughal-era gem-setting and the fate of India's princely jewellery collections in the 20th century.

Can I buy a naulakha-style necklace today?

Yes — at a wide range of price points. Genuine traditional naulakha work with natural pearls and precious stones from Jaipur master jewellers is expensive but not nine-lakh-rupee expensive for most contemporary pieces. Pearl-and-stone multi-strand necklaces in gold-plated brass with semi-precious stones offer the aesthetic at very accessible prices.

What is the difference between a naulakha and a rani haar?

A rani haar (literally queen's necklace) is a long, multi-strand necklace typically extending to the navel, associated specifically with South Indian bridal jewellery and often made entirely of gold beads. A naulakha combines pearls, coloured stones, and gold in a shorter, denser multi-strand form. Both are elaborate multi-strand necklaces, but the materials, regional associations, and aesthetic are distinct.

The naulakha is the dream of Indian jewellery made material — wealth, craft, and aspiration in a single piece. At KANSYA, we make jewellery that carries this spirit without demanding a royal treasury. Explore our jewellery collection.